Sweetmonger and I spent the weekend in rural Southwestern Virginia visiting family. While there, we dined at Town House in Chilhowie. Town House may very well be the best restaurant in Virginia (and yes I am including the Inn at Little Washington), and it is certainly a dining experience that is not to be missed.
A little background first. Town House has been in operation since early 2002 serving fairly traditional, upscale food. I have dined there on multiple occasions and found the meals to be enjoyable. However, in the fall of 2007, the restaurant and its chef parted ways over creative differences, and the owners engaged in an exhaustive search for a new chef. They eventually hired the team of John Shields and Karen Urie, who started cooking for the Town House in late 2007. Immediately prior to Town House, John was a sous chef at Alinea, Gourmet Magazine’s Best Restaurant in America, working under Grant Achatz in Chicago, and Karen was head pastry chef at the world famous Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago. Their blend of cutting edge techniques and high quality ingredients create a one of a kind dining experience.
The meal began with some “snacks.” These included a green curry rice crispy treat, an “Oreo” (my description) cookie with an olive oil cream filling, a clam chip and some dehydrated mango and pink peppercorn ribbons. A delicious way to start the meal. (This is a pic of the plate that the snacks were on)
The meal began with some “snacks.” These included a green curry rice crispy treat, an “Oreo” (my description) cookie with an olive oil cream filling, a clam chip and some dehydrated mango and pink peppercorn ribbons. A delicious way to start the meal. (This is a pic of the plate that the snacks were on)
Chilled geoduck, oysters, razorback clams, mussels, horseradish cream, leak confit, dehydrated beet, and granny smith apple sorbet
The sorbet created a wonderful blend of savory and sweet flavors and the horseradish cream added a bit of spice, which was an interesting yet delicious contrast to the cold shellfish. At the time, I didn't expect anything to top it. Superb.
Barely seared ahi, white soy bean paste, spinach and cucumber foam
This course did indeed top it though. The tuna was seared perfectly and was full of flavor. The sweetness of the cucumber and the bitterness of the spinach worked to create a balanced and delicious foam. A beautiful blend of savory and sweet. Excellent. (This is a picture of my paritally eaten tuna)
Blue crab, sunchokes, brown butter, meyer lemon mayonnaise.
This deconstructed crab cake was a stunning achievement. The best savory dish of the night and one of my all time favorite plates of food. Excellent. I had dinner about a month ago at Le Bernardin in New York City, the world-famous three star Michelin seafood temple. There was not one dish on my tasting menu that compared in taste, texture, or creativity to the three seafood courses at Town House.
Rack of Lamb, giant shallot, FAGE yogurt and honey foam
The worst course of the night, yet still very good. As the lamb soaked up the foam, a near indescribable flavor combination worked wonders in my mouth. The sweetness of the foam provided the perfect accompaniment to the robustly flavored lamb. Very good approaching excellence. (This is a pic of sweetmonger's partially eaten lamb . . . . I had already eaten too much of mine by the time I remembered to take a picture).
Our cheese course was a frozen explorator triple crème cheese was a perfect segue into the desserts.
Venezuelan chocolate, curly fries, pretzel ice cream, caramelized mustard seeds.
I was not prepared for this dessert as I hadn't expected to be eating chocolate "pudding" topped with salty curly fries. No matter, after the first bite of fries and chocolate, I thought, “Oh, this is good.” In the second bite, I incorporated the ice cream and thought, “Wow, this is really good.” After tasting all the elements in the third bite, I said, “This is the best dessert I have ever had.” A pitch perfect mixture of salty and sweet and it would still be the best dessert I have ever had had the kitchen not sent out the second one.
Chocolate chip sherbet, gorgonzola, pine nut torrone
This was an excellent meal and a dining experience that few other restaurants can match. Town House is an oasis nestled in an otherwise barren culinary desert. The cuisine easily rivals some of the very best restaurants in the country. It is well worth making a trip to Southwestern Virginia to dine there. You will not be disappointed.
Town House
http://www.townhouseva.com
132 E. Main St.
Chilhowie, VA 24319
(276) 646-8787
4 comments:
ye savage beast,
get to the point
otherwise a good read
MY WIFE AND I ATE AT THE TOWN HOUSE FOLLOWING THE SUGGESTION OF THE MONGER. I HAD THE MERO FISH. ABSOLUTLY THE BEST SEAFOOD I HAVE EVER EAT. THE ATMOSPHERE IS VERY PLEASING AND WILL RETURN THERE AGIAN. THE NEXT TIME I PLAN A TRIP I WILL CHECK TO SEE IF THERE IS A SUGGESTION ON YOUR WEB SITE.
We absolutely love the new chefs at Town House Grill, and are thrilled to have such a gem near us!! We try and go at least once every few weeks, and are always impressed with the seasonal changes to the menu. Additionally, John and Karen are not only great chefs but wonderful people!!
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