Monday, March 31, 2008

The Cakemonger's Dining Report

I’ve been putting off my first Monger review for a while now, waiting for that opportune moment when I am inspired to write a thorough review of a recent meal full of eloquent descriptions and witty commentary. Since that moment of food-blogging inspiration has not yet arrived, instead I offer a quick rundown of some of my most memorable meals so far in 2008.

AVEC (Chicago)
The food at Avec is simple, with great flavors and a lot of soul. It’s the kind of food I could eat every day and never get tired of. Based on my last visit, I recommend the “deluxe” focaccia with taleggio and herbs, red-wine braised crispy chicken thighs, chorizo-stuff dates wrapped in bacon (a signature dish), and the citrus salad. I am currently on a quest to re-create their focaccia at home; otherwise I’m going to have to move back to Chicago.


BABBO (NYC)
Though Babbo is known as one of NYC’s toughest reservations, we were lucky enough to walk in with no wait around 8PM on a Wednesday. Great atmosphere, even better food. We went with the pasta tasting menu, which consisted of five intensely flavored, yet delicate pasta courses, followed by a trio of desserts, which were well-executed but nothing extraordinary. The pasta tasting was a nice intro to Mario Batali’s food, but I’ll be back to sample the amazing looking game dishes that I was eyeing at the next table over.



PER SE (NYC)
One of the most elegant and extraordinary meals I’ve ever had. Every course was spot-on. My only regret is that by the end I was too full to enjoy the parade of mignardises that followed the meal. This restaurant truly deserves its 3 Michelin stars (unlike Le Bernardin, which by comparison offers closer to a 1-star meal). Obviously, 4 cutting boards.


TAILOR (NYC)
Stay away from: the peanut butter-foie gras dish. Don’t miss: the dessert tasting, the Agua Verde cocktail. 3 cutting boards.


MOMOFUKU SSAM BAR (NYC)
Let me just say that any restaurant that devotes an entire section of their menu to American country ham earns a special place in my heart. Served alongside paper-thin slices of country ham, David Chang’s version of red-eye gravy is one of the most unique condiments I have ever tasted. It’s served at room temperature, kind of the consistency of pudding, with that smoky-coffee flavor that goes so well with country ham. But this is a 4 cutting board place because everything else on the menu is amazing too. The steamed pork buns are a must; the fried Brussels sprouts, seasonal pickles, house made mortadella, and Old Bay crusted skate were also favorites on my last visit. The actual “ssams” are very good, but my advice is to order everything else on the menu first. You won’t be disappointed. (Momofuku Noodle Bar is also great, but I think their atmosphere and pace is better suited for lunch.)


MAGNOLIA GRILL (Durham, NC)
Since moving to the Triangle area, when dining out I often find myself thinking, “this is really good…for [Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill].” In other words, sometimes what is a great place here would only be mediocre compared to some of my favorites in other cities. I think a lot of that is due to the fact that there are so many restaurants here that offer some take on “New Southern” cooking, and most of the time I find that concept really boring, even outdated. Magnolia Grill is the exception. Ben and Karen Barker not only invented this style of cooking, but they have been doing it for more than twenty years and somehow they manage to keep it fresh and exciting.



ALINEA (Chicago)
I celebrated my birthday this year with the 25 course “tour” at Alinea. What can I say about Alinea that hasn’t already been said in every major food publication, blog, or forum? Probably nothing. 4 cutting boards.



BLUE HILL (NYC)
I fantasize about someday growing my own bountiful garden straight from the pages of Martha Stewart Living, sharing fresh eggs laid by my flock of free-range hens with friends and family, and foraging mushrooms in my back yard. Yes, I’m a big fan of the whole farm to table thing, but the reality is I struggle to keep my one house plant alive, and I rely on the local farmers market instead. It’s no surprise that I enjoyed eating at Blue Hill. My appetizer, “This Morning’s Farm Egg,” came gently poached in a grassy, green herb broth. I’m pretty sure it’s what the above fantasy tastes like. Our other courses were not as memorable, but still very, very good. 3 cutting boards.



ALLEN AND SON BARBEQUE (Chapel Hill, NC)
Best barbeque I’ve had in the short time I have lived in North Carolina; a true “joint” that matches my expectations of what BBQ should be. This is hickory-smoked, chopped pork shoulder meat, so moist and flavorful you don’t need any sauce. But the sauce, spicy and vinegar-based is delicious too. They do a great job with their slaw, and the hushpuppies are addictive. Pecan pie was a little disappointing- the crust was bland and a little over-baked. 3 cutting boards.

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